The Long Road(s) to PAVONES (day 0 +1)

Friday 28th of August 2009 around 1900 I was wandering what happened to PP (Paulo Marques) a friend who was supposed to pick Filipe Tourita (another friend) and myself in Lourinha and from there we needed to drive to Madrid (700 km distance) where we would take the Plane to Newark (USA) and then San José (Costa Rica).
Instead of leaving at 1900 as planned we left at 2200, the drive was going alright until we entered Spain and the car’s turbo failed, the speed started to drop and I was getting the feeling the car would get to a complete halt! After stopping for petrol the turbo returned to failed a couple of kilometers away again, it would come and go, we were going faster than slow, than faster, but eventually reached Madrid where Ericka, a friend of PP was meeting as she was meant to look after PP’s car while we were gone.
Check-in was super nice; we manage to convince the lady attending us that we had 2 boards on each bag instead of the actual 3 that each bag contained and pay only US$100 to take the imaginary 2 boards instead of the US$400 required by Continental Airlines to take 3 boards, what a nonsense (lets us hope we can manage to achieve the same trick on the way back!)!
Taking off was a problem because apparently we had a flat tire and to replace the bloody thing took more than 1 hour, so we got darn late into New York metropolitan area to make the transit into the flight to San Jose (all also thanks to the bureaucracy of the friendly US government policies…).

Boards were all OK except my 6’5’’ that had her nose scratched off; in the end it was my fault really since I didn’t pad the noses and tails properly. I then took my jacket and placed it covering the noses in hopes it would protect and no more damages were caused.
PP forgot his luggage somewhere in the airport while carrying his stuff to re-check. We were already onto the inspection and scan site to the flight to San José when PP decided to have a go and look for it. We were very late and I was starting to get nervous! The search was hopeless and we had to board the plane. I was pretty sad about PP’s having to wander around Costa Rica on his jeans and shirt but I couldn’t stop but to grim at the thought of having all this policemen looking at the abandoned bag thinking it was another “terrorist” attack, in fact, in the end of my vision they were blowing it up just to be sure it wasn’t a bomb! (Not good for PP this part of my imaginary)

When we got into San José, 5 hours later, his name was being called to tell him his suitcase was left in Newark, unattended, but they would deliver it to a destination of his choice in Costa Rica, so he said Pavones (me thinking it would NEVER get there!).
After getting all our stuff together (except PP’s suitcase) and inspecting the boards, they were the same as we seen at Newark. Outside the airport we met the people from Thrifty, the Rent-a-Car service that Fatum Travel booked us. We got to the office and Edgar, the assistant, was very kind into guiding us through all the process, and by the end we got our Daihatsu BeGo (that Tourita called Pandereta) ready to roll. After a bite in Denny’s we spent 2 hours trying to get out from San Jose in direction to Cartago getting everywhere but where we really wanted to go. Eventually we figured out that the way signed Cartago into the highway is actually the opposite direction! Tourita was thinking San Jose was the worst place on earth and we COULD NOT stop at any red traffic lights and could not approach anyone to ask directions of any kind. At first I was quite piss off we were passing so many red traffic lights, but true enough many people were doing the same, but asking people about where to go when I was desperately trying to get away from San Jose… after a while I just asked, “hey can you stop here?”, got out and went to ask people how to get to Cartago. Anyway, this proved to be useless since all directions we got were wrong, virtually ALL, some even worst then road sign point Cartago in the opposite way where we should go! We then took the way into San Pedro by the ‘CA 2’ (it is like a normal road with some parts resembling a highway) and found our way in direction to Cartago, we thought of sleeping there but as our circadian rhythm were still the ones from Portugal we decided to drive, and we did, all night long. After Cartago in direction to San Isidro de El General and then direction of Paso Canoas all following the ‘CA 2’, then we took a shortcut using the 237 road into the 16, down to Ciudad Neily from there to Rio Claro where we stopped for breakfast at the local Panaderia and from there straight into Pavones.

Because we were driving mostly at night we could not perceive what was really around us, but coming down into Ciudad Neily we started to see as first lights came in… a luxuriant tropical rainforest surrounding us, winding roads from mountains into valleys and a greenness I’ve only experienced in Sao Tome and Principe so far. But this is remarkable, no wonder Costa Rica is considered to be the greenest country in the world, but more about Costa Rica as a country later.

Golfo Dulce

Road into Pavones ranks 5 on the worst roads top 10 described on the lonely planet guide – Costa Rica. You need a 4×4 or you won’t get anywhere! The road passes from the lowlands where cattle wanders around to crops of palm trees until you start t get into proper tropical rainforest with all it has to offer, all this of course passing wooden bridges and taking a “ferry” to cross the Coto Colorado River.

Crossing

Crossing

Bridge

We finally arrived to Pavones around 0830 and headed straight to where the famous second longest left-hander in the world lies at the river mouth, and it was tinny, in fact it was told to us that it was the smallest they have seen it all year!!

Flat Pavones

After that dreadful, shocking, horrific scenario (wave-wise) we asked where La Riviera was, our place to stay, and as we were going up Kelly (the owner) and the kids were going for a surf at Punta Banco where it was supposed to be the only place possible to surf today. We also met her husband, James before me and Tourita headed down with the board to see if we could even have a little surf at the main break of Pavones, but nothing. As we were coming up to the hotel still dry, a Local told us that the only place to surf was Punta Banco (same spot Kelly and the kids were surfing) so we headed that way. PP was too tired and got into bed straight away. True enough there were waves but nothing special. I took my brand new “bulldog” model that Gero shaped for me (Fatum Surfboards) just before I travel and it was not cured still, but I just got it is for a dip. Still with those dire conditions I still managed to catch some waves and was thrilled with my board. It is a very small thing, measuring 5’5’’x 19’’x2’1/4’’, very stable and versatile, now I’m hoping to try it on a bigger day, we still don’t know when!

Well, have another piece of advice and bring DOLARS here and not EURO! Me and PP manage to get some money from the cash machine at San Jose but wasn’t enough, so we reached Pavones with almost no money, even though we have some euro with us. And we only had money to get back to Golfito about 60kms away and get to a bank and re-charge. Tourita and I had a burger at La Plaza Bar and shared a beer since money was scarce. Tourita still insisted we should ask for another beer and he wanted the other course that was substantially more expensive. I had to play daddy and say no, otherwise we would be in trouble to get to golfito. For him all would be ok we just have to ask someone for cash or we could leave more money in euro with the owners of the restaurants and then pay them in colones (the currency of costa rica) when he have them and they would return the euro to us. Many schemes and ways, that the owners of the hotel should help us, etc. in the end we shared the beer, eated the cheapest thing on the menu (burgers) and headed off. I still wanted to get to Golfito and get cash out and sort out some other things, but as we were almost dead beat we decided to sleep and do that in the morning.

We haven’t seen much today and now I’m drained and exhausted. I still managed to send an e-mail to my girlfriend saying it was all alright and now I’m off to lie in the hammock outside since my head is almost detonating!

Tomorrow more on Costa Rica…
Pura Vida!

Angola and STP budgets amongst 10 least transparent

Thought this would have a particular interest so I just quoted all the article.

Source: Macauhub

Lisbon, Portugal, 4 Feb – Angola and Sao Tome and Principe are amongst the tem countries in the world with the least transparent State Budgets, ranking 76th and 85th, respectively out of 85 countries analysed by the Open Budget Index 2008.

The report, which is available on the International Budget Partnership (IBP) website, under “Open Budgets Change Lives”, covers just three Portuguese-speaking countries, the third of which is Brazil, which was placed eighth as it “provides significant information to the population about the Federal Government budget and financial activities throughout the financial year.”

The survey, which was based on data collected up to 28 September 2007, noted that “80 percent of the world’s governments do not provide enough information to the population to post accounts of how they manage their money.”

It also noted that half of the 85 countries analysed, “provide such limited information that it is possible to hide unpopular, loss-making and corrupt spending,” and only five countries provide wide-ranging information,” about state budgets.

In the countries with the most open budgets – United Kingdom, South Africa, France, New Zealand and the United States – “all citizens can have access to information about how much is channelled to different types of spending, which revenues have come in and how international aid and other public resources are used,” the survey said.

In the report on Angola the main problems pointed out were not providing the budget proposal to the population (in 2008 the information was placed in the Finance ministry website for the first time) and the difficulty in accessing data on spending, revenues and loans during the financial year.

In Sao Tome and Principe, the lack of transparency is greater as the proposal is not made available to the population before it is approved by parliament, no final report is published about the financial year and the Government does not make the audit report public, nor does it provide information about whether the recommendations from this document have been successfully applied.

TIA, bru!

0035 of the 04/04/200 I was sitting at the 25A seat of the STP Airways taking off to Sao Tome (ST). I don’t understand why they feed us 2 courses within 5 hours when we are flying over night and what I really wanted to do was SLEEP, NOT EAT!

Landed ST at 0634 with people at the side of the landing platform waving at us and some dogs running around the track…

With much less sleep than what I need, and when I don’t get the sleep I nee I get very, VERY grumpy and stressed. So, I kept blaring inwards because the cue was taking too long, people were just taking silly photos and not moving etc.

At the vaccination pitch I met the always smiling Isaura Carvalho (the main organizer of the event) and her husband José Carlos Silva (a very famous chef) that helped us getting ready for the hotel.

At the way out I met Luis Noronha my long friend and guide of ST. After a small chat about life and how is ST going and the people that I know here we parted ways and I went o the new Pestana Sao Tome – Ocean Resort Hotel. Helping me up to my room as the nice Adécio, whom I’ve met the other 2 previous times I was here. He didn’t recognized me wt short hair (contrary to the long haired guy who was here the last time) and so I started to play him around saying he looked like someone from Sporting (a Portuguese football team), knowing that he is absolutely crazy about it and coaches a team of young kids here in the island.
I generally don’t fancy much this 5 start luxurious facilities with people more grumpy people than me with little sleep (normally I’m a nice chap!). However I must say that with the view I have from by balcony overseeing the ocean and a big part of ST’s coastline, this must be the best “office” I ever had (the balcony has internet access and all). I would however, maybe, change this for the Roça São João dos Angolares and its entire traditional and tropical feel. I Know I’m just taking the piss being so picky…

Pestana Hotel

After a short while I headed down to the hall, got on the mini-bus and entered the meeting at Aula Magna near the MARAPA office. All morning session I was struggling to keep my eyes open and gutted at the fact I could not get my hands on a cup of coffee, which I eventually did at the break of the meeting. Morning session was a full one with very interesting presentations. However I would like to mention 2 of them, the ones I caught all my half sleeping attention:

1)      The talk given by Rogério Roque Amaro (ISCTE):
Is the local development wanted and possible in STP?

I particularly liked the way he started addressing the people in the room by saying that he normally does not follow protocol and would like to greet every person present in the room in the same way (while others were giving praise to different people in relation to their social status).

He started by explaining the history of the concept and methodology of the “local development” movement, as it started to be put in practice by member of UN & FAO, even contrary to the models and practices of those organizations. Normally the ways of a more developed country, nation or society were modeled and then taken to another part of the world and imposed onto the population living there, because it was more evolved, and so it would enhance the standards of living of those striving and leading their lives there. However, one needs to listen and take into deep consideration the culture, ways, convictions and traditions of the populations of a community. One needs to listen and work with the community in a different way. Listen to them, use local methods and knowledge and look at the problems in a global perspective.

The main notion of “local development” is to find local answers for global challenges.

It is also an answer to the global crisis we are living presently, and to any problem that might arise and become a threat to the community.

So 3 sectors of society play a vital role on the process, the government as a partner of the process, the industry with a civil responsibility, and the community (not a administrative term here!) as a voiced entity that conducts its own path.

I took some quotes about “local development” that I think portrait its meaning:
-          “it is not a prête-à-porté kind of work”
-          “needs external help [but is not dependent of it] and it is not sectored”
-          “convert a person with problem into a person with capabilities”
-          “the local community is marginalized with the thought that was comes from abroad is what is good”
-          “defy the local government as a cabalistic agent rather that a inhibitor of development”

During the discussion the governor of the region of Principe (the other island) spoke and I thought his comment was very enthusiastic and with a good message: “we have to forbid of letting ourselves down, and never to doubt the power the communities have to organize.”

2)      The lecture presented by Maria do Carmo SIlveira (STP)
Sustainable/Local Development – durable perspective of the communities’ growth

I liked her presentation not so much for the edge revelations she presented but because of the contents related to STP. She presented only 4 dimensions of sustainable development when there are 7 and there were some gaps of knowledge. However, her presentation was simple and informative in relation to the palce we are meeting, Sao Tome and Principe.

She gave much focused on the environment as a fundamental factor for the sustainable development, having technology playing it role.

She also highlighted some projects that have environmental risks such as the petroleum case (that STP divided 40/60 with Nigeria) [that is was thought to save STP and making it a new Dubai, but so far nothing has happened so far], the deep water harbor, and in the end she threw the question to the air, “what kind of tourism do we want for STP?”

1st International Encounter on Local Development

After the morning session I started to collapse due to sleep deprivayion, so I headed to the hotel and slept almost all afternoon. Got up to eat at the hotel and went back to bed.

However, I would like to make some considerations in relation to the history of this small island state. After the 500 years of Portuguese dominance, in 1975 they got their independence.  With independence they were given a system, industries and a political realm they did not know how to administrate. To make things worse their transition was into a single party (dictatorship) who ruled the country and was taking any opposition to its power out of the way for 15 years. “Democracy” arrived only in 1990′s. Democracy with the less transparent budget in the world, according to the Open Budget Index (2008). Now go figure how is to work down here, it isn’t easy, many games of seduction and power, a little like the International Whaling Commission (IWC).

The country here is unstable and corruption is a career not opportunity. I reckon the main problem is that they are holding a system they don’t know how to control and administrate. The culture and society is still living in a post-traumatic state with little conducting vector towards a stable and safeguard environment for the people of STP.

TIA (This Is Africa), bru!

The road back to Africa

Tomorrow I’m heading to the small island state of São Tome and Principe, lying 150 miles (240 km) from the West African mainland.
There it will take place the 1st International Encounter on Local Development. I’m to give a lecture on whale-watching, and its perspectives on country, giving examples and making considerations in relation to the industry itself, its benefits to the coastal communities and sustainable ways of building a long lasting profitable industry based on conservation and research bases in order to achieve a consistence platform of work.

Fsheries of Sao Tome and Principe

Besides taking part on the event I’ll be having meetings with the decision-makers in government, representatives from the Civil Society (NGOs) and the tourism sector. The aim is to provide scientific and practical advice and suggestions regarding the use of cetaceans as a resource, and ways of implementing and cementing t – in accordance to the material also given in the presentation.

Considerations of the voyage to be displayed daily…

IWC Intersessional – Day 3

Sea Shepherd (SS) dominated all the agenda of the 3rd and last morning of the IWC Intersessional meeting. Japan via the Institute of Cetacean research (ICR) (who conducts  and runs the Japanese “junk-science” operations) presented a talk based on the “happenings” on the Southern Ocean during the last whaling season.

All their presentation was focused down on the ramming, the propellers disabling tactics and line-throwing rockets used by SS. In one of the videos they showed some one screaming. It was funny because they showed it like a way of demonstrating the danger and fear the crews of the catchers were experiencing but in the end he asked for no translation. Yeah it was someone screaming, but just swearing all the way through.

During their presentation they mentioned a few things that I got intrigued:
1) Japan’s claim that you were using nylon ropes to disable vessels and that after an unsuccessful attempt to do so, you would not recover the ropes
2) It also stated that if you were there to defend whales and then if some of their vessels was properly disabled it could eventually create a environmental catastrophe in the pristine region that is the Antarctic.

ICR presentation on Sea Shepherd

I took my time to ask Shannon Mann (long-time SS activist) about this 2 main question and she got me a nice and clarifying message. However, this is her perspective, not an official SS position!

[quoting Shannon Mann]
“But, in regards to your questions… we do use ropes to attempt prop fouling of the Japanese vessels, I’ve seen us try several times in the past three years. However, each situation is different and although we try to retrieve all of the lines we drop, there have been cases where we haven’t. If the situation is that we have to make the choice between doubling back to retrieving a line and abandoning the pursuit of the Nisshin Maru… we will stay on our pursuit of  factory ship and make sure no whales are being killed.  Essentially, if it comes directly down to the choice between whale life and a line, we choose the whale. As well, we often change course to pick up stray lines (and it happens often) when we are voyaging to and from the Antarctic territory.

So far we haven’t disabled one of the whaling ships with one of these lines.  I don’t know if we ever will, but I can assure you that we would do everything possible to mitigate the risk to their ship.  We would jeopardize our campaign and SS reputation if we caused injury, death or environmental destruction.  If the situation occurred where a ship was in need of assistance, obviously we would be there to ensure the ship and everyone on board was safe.  If they would refuse our help, they also have the rest of the fleet there to assist.

I’m not sure I’ve answered your questions, but feel free to email me again for further discussion.  As well, these are my opinions from my observations as a crew member for the past few years, not official SS stances… I would have to ask Paul for that, and could if you would like an official statement. [...]“

Sea Shepherd Logo

After my last lunch at the chaotic cafeteria on the 8th floor of the headquarters of FAO, I headed to the Santa Prisca hotel to pack up and leave. Seemed a easy task, but I always try to complicate it. I thought I had a long way to go and a few transfers in the way. My plan was to take the Metro, then the Train and reach Fiumicino Airport in time for my departure. After encountering some Greenpeace fundraisers on the street, they told me the best way of doing it was actually using the train station just next to the Metro near the Piramide. So I did, I shared the train with Alexandre de Lichtervelde, the Belgian IWC Commissioner and got far too early to the airport, so early the ladies at the check-in introduced me into an earlier flight. The only problem was that I didn’t really looked at my ticket and my only objective was to send away my luggage. So I watched all the people from the departure lounge boarding the plane I was meant to take. Because I was earring my mp3 player I did noticed any of the 20 times the name Francisco Gonçalves “last call, boarding etc” was pronounced. So I made a plane get delayed since all my luggage had to be taken of the aircraft and I got another tour of the airport getting my luggage back, making the check-in again and having the flight attendants eager to almost punch me, but in the end they we very sweet. After a short stop in Madrid I reached Lisbon Airport where my good friend Susana picked me up and we went down town for a few drink and cheap chat.

So the IWC Intersessional 2009 meeting was concluded.

Read the IFAW press release at the conclusion of the 3-day meeting: Whaling Commission harpoons science in favour of political compromise

IWC Intersessional – Day 2

Second day of proceedings started with the discussions of the Agenda Item 4: REPORT OF THE INTERSESSIONAL CORRESPONDENCE GROUP (ICG) ON ISSUES RELATED TO THE SCIENTIFIC COMMITTEE (SC).

A panoply of affairs related to the SC presented by Greg Donovan, Countries started asking the Commission to be able to provide reports of the SC well before the IWC plenary. The current way things are processed; the Scientific Report is concluded and handed to the country delegations 48 hours prior and remains confidential until the plenary opening. Various countries argued that this manner is highly unproductive since the delegations cannot go through the approximately 800 pages in the time frame allowed and aren’t able to deliver recommendations and propose solutions. The commission will take this in consideration and will see what can be done to alter this.

Then discussions turned to the transparency and who should or shouldn’t be allowed presence at the SC meetings and so on. Australia did hold a stance wanting to be present at some of the SC discussions (and it was not allowed at some point), USA intervened saying that it welcomes observers, but there should be the opportunity for closed meetings of the procedure reviews and there is no plan on holding observers “because you don’t know how many will turn up if 4 or 84″ those were the words.

After Agenda Item 4 was closed opportunity was given to NGOs to speak. From all those I would like to sand out Dr. Sidney Holt’s speech, that you can access here. Talking about the crisis IWC faced, first in 1961 then 1973 he said that “We did learn, then, that short-term provisional “solutions” could lead to nasty long-term consequences”, referring to the almost extinction of blue, fin and humpback whales. “What crisis management really needed was for governments to have the will to change and to act in good faith. But promises to act definitively within a certain specified frame were repeatedly broken”. Whales indeed have a special status being highly migratory. Sidney evoked UNCLOS (Convention on the Law of the Sea) stating that fisheries must be managed in such way as to leave enough food for dependent species, such as cetaceans – not the other way around (Article 61.4 & 199.1 (b).

He also argued that the restoration of functionality requires the withdrawal of all “objections”". Another threat to Cetacean conservation is the “reservations” to CITES Appendix I listing. He finally welcomed the launching of the Southern Ocean research Partnership by the government of Australia, but said that was “a late start in producing a coherent management plan for the Southern Ocean Whale Sanctuary”.

Working Team

After the NGO speakers finalized their interventions, the commission went into recess until the next morning and we warped it up by lunch time.

However I would like to make some personal considerations about some of the agenda items and a few topics that are quite hot on the IWC dealings.

1) Everyone is asking for the head of the current chair of the IWC Dr. William Hogarth due to the “whalergate case” (as Patrick Ramage was putting it). Basically Dr. Hogarth was forging a plan behind close-doors that would legitimize whaling on international waters compromising the conservation block and fundamentally the welfare of whales by undoing the global moratorium on commercial whaling. See IFAW press release here.
Even though I would like to see Dr. Hogarth pulled away from the Chair role of the IWC I would agree with the IFAW perspective that it wouldn’t be good policy or tactic. Being a USA Chair to remove him from his position would be highly damaging. If there is any country able to put a final mark on the whaling issue is the USA. And their citizens need a feeling of leadership, get rid of Dr. Hogarth would not just take the “savior complex” away but would also leave the feeling that “if we are not leading, it is not our problem, the other leader have to solve it not US!”

2) Coastal Whaling
As for many other terms the ICRW is not clear in defining Coastal Whaling. Dr. Sidney Holt put it very well on his Speech saying that “[the term] is dangerously ambiguous. Colloquially it means “near the shore”, but some governments seem to think it could mean “within 200-miles or even further”. That’s practically what Aristotle called a reduction ad absurdum, making whaling habit from the Barent Sea to the coast of Labrador the zone of “coastal whaling”. Further confusion comes from something called “Small-Type Whaling” (S-TCW), which is just an English translation of a Japanese administrative category by which catchers of less than 48 tons displacement are allowed to hunt small whales on one-day trips, that’s about 50 miles from base”
I really think this Coastal Whaling terminology need to be clarified in order for us to envisage what we are really dealing here with.

3) Junk-Science
JARPA (conducted in the Antarctic), JARPN (conducted on the north-west Pacific); the ongoing JARPA II and JARPN II are all part of the so-called scientific programs of the Japanese government conducted by the Institute of Cetacean Research (ICR), a privately-owned, non-profit institution. The institute receives its funding from government subsidies and Kyodo Senpaku, which handles processing and marketing of byproducts such as whale meat.

During JARPA for example, a program that took 18 years and after killing 6,778 minke whales it was attempted to determine the natural mortality rate, ‘M’.
In 2006 an expert workshop of scientists from the International Whaling Commission, meeting in Tokyo, agreed (including the Japanese scientists) that the natural mortality rate was not determined – the confidence limits around estimates of M from JARPA data were so wide that M remains effectively unknown. These were so wide that even a value of M=0 was not excluded. In other words, 18 years of lethal ‘research’ had been unable to exclude the possibility that minke whales might be immortal! (source: Greenpeace)

Today again we heard the IWC Head of Science Greg Donovan, say that there is not enough and reliable data to determine numbers and abundance of most of whale stocks, so I wonder after all this junk-science we still don’t have data to implement a RMP or anything at all? With over 200 scientists attending the SC meeting and so on producing huge amount of paper load to be analyzed 48 hours prior to the plenary opening, I ask: what have been the achievements of the SC?

4) The blurry fuzzy future
It is hard to make long-term strategies on this whaling affair. Most of the time, I feel we are only trying to fill in the holes, that the Japanese Government inflicts on the conservation movement. I strongly believe that the Small Working Group (SWG) has to be “blown-up”. It is circumventing the RMP (Revised Management Procedure), set in place (however, not applied) to make sure commercial whaling would be bond within safe and sustainable catch-limits based on sound-science. Now, the SWG is trying to come up with a package based on ad-hoc catch-limits, disregarding science and long-term sustainability all of this with an aura of compromise from the USA regarding Japan’s objectives.

Well, what are the Japanese objectives; anyone has any idea of what are these? If there is someone with a better and clearer idea is the USA government. We on the NGO platform are often blind-working trying to up-hold the conservation measures that the IWC imposed itself and is now thwarting, like the RMP and the Moratorium on Commercial Whaling.

Japan is still using its corruption loophole, here in Rome, Comoros was presented as an observer, obviously ready to join the circus of puppets Japan has bought in order to keep its simple majority, and the stalemate in place.

My work from now will be focused on avoiding some nations to join the IWC and support Japan, try to get one or two important countries and make sure they vote for conservation (if need be). Regarding the IWC 61 in Madeira I’ll be taking care of logistics and on-ground assistance; outreach network and information sharing coordination with NGOs and Civil Society; and work/provide information to Portuguese and International Media agencies based in Lisbon.

My feeling is that I’m just closing gaps and now making any dashing forward movements towards a resolution of the whaling issue.

The afternoon was spent walking around Rome, a long awaited moment since all my school days I was fascinated by Greek and Roman history. I walked a few kilometers around the city to discover things as I was going along, Coliseum, Arc of Triumph, roman Forum, Imperial Forum, Plaza de Venezia, Fontana de Trevi, Pantheon and other few bits.

Arco di Constantino

At the end of my walkabout I joined a Tibetan Demo marking the 50th anniversary of the exile of the Dalai Lama in Dharmsala, India. March 10th marks the 50th anniversary of the failed Tibetan uprising against Chinese rule that sent the Dalai Lama into exile.

Tibetan Monk

Dinner was at Da Giggetto, with Sidney, Vassili, Patrick, Georgan, and John, nice Roman meal to conclude the day.

IWC Intersessional – Day 1

It was a night with little sleep (about 3 hours) before I drove into Lisbon and my friend Susana took me to the airport. With a stopover in Madrid I got into Rome Fiumicino Airport around 19:00. Then took a taxi to the Hotel Santa Prisca where I’m staying. Dropped things there and went out for some food since the only thing I had eaten all day as breakfast, chose the closest one to the hotel, Trattoria “Perilli”. It was a strange experience since I do not speak Italian and didn’t know that you need to ask “all you want” on your plate separately so I ended up eating a Bisteca Manzo, that was nothing but a huge steak, followed by a Tiramisu. Went back to the hotel and dropped flat for some sleep.

It is difficult for me to get some decent sleep in cities, since I’m living on a very secluded place in the country side. So I spent the night waking up intermittently, and drinking loads of water due to the bedroom eating system that seems to dehydrate and try to take away all available water in my system.

Woke up today to get lost trying to find my way to the FAO headquarters, I started walking on the opposite direction, then manage to give myself a tour around before started ascending on the right direction through Via Piramide Ciesta and then Viale Aventino, until I reached Viale Terme Di Caracalla and the FAO headquarters.

FAO Headquarters, Rome, Italy

Got my IFAW credentials and headed towards the venue. It seemed rather empty, but that was only because all NGOs were gathered at the cafeteria and I didn’t know about it! But soon people started to appear here and there, one of the very first I saw was Mammadou Diallo from WWF WARMER and dear colleague who has been giving a great help on my work in Africa, also after that I saw my dearest friend and mentor, Dr. Sidney Holt and my “PEW Boss” Leslie Busby. It was followed by many other included the other from the IFAW pack, Vassili Papastavrou and “IFAW Boss” Patrick Ramage.

The Red Room @ FAO Headquearters in Rome, Italy

All meeting was quite dull and we are not suppose to transmit whatever was said because it is confidential (quite ridiculous), we basically passed in review the 33 items the Small Working Group (SWG) has in hands following some comment on the future of the IWC by the Chairs; and that was the end of the first day. (read the “de Soto report” here)

After that we went down for dinner after the reception hosted by the Italian Government at the FAO headquarters where food and beverages were serve, we ended up in the same room that the Japanese Delegation having with us Sidney holt who appear on ECO calling them “Terrorists” and “Kidnapers”. Quite funny! After that I went down to my hotel and dropped dead at my small bed with a huge pillow :-)

Dream #1215

It was a blurry dream like many others; I woke up to find the sun entering through the window I had forgotten to close last night. It was like I was being enlightened, I dreamed of my future, our future, and decided to start to take control. For too long I’ve been living bended, scared, and beaten, afraid of my own potential. But today I rise and things look different, I feel strength from within and I’ll clench onto it portrayed by my action of closing my fist. It is time, father, my time …

葉隱 (trans: In the shadow the Leaves)

From Hagakure – The book of the Samurai:

“When meeting calamities or difficult situations, it is not enough to simply say that one is at all flustered. When meeting difficult situations, one should dash forward bravely and with joy. It is the crossing of a single barrier and is like the saying, “The more the water, the higher the boat”*.

Yamamoto Tsunetomo (circa 1700)

*From Pi-yen-lu, a Chinese book of Koans: “The more the water, the higher the boat. The more the mud, the bigger the Buddha”