NO a las Granjas Atuneras! (interlude with Sean McGonagle)

Almost every day I had the chance to talk a little with our landlord, Sean McGonagle, from Riviera Villas. Always with a smile and a nice word, soon I started to realize that besides a soul surfer he is also a electrician, a builder, a gardener and everything the place needs, always working in a deep connection with the local community, he is also part; a great host and respectable man.

Our conversations were diverse, around and about different topics, and from those exchanges I could perceive how much rooted he is into the environment down here in Pavones.
One of the topics I got really interest was the Granjas Atuneras, or Tuna Aquaculture…

Granjas Atuneras means “a nightmare at your doorstep!” (as Sean putted it), and in this case it a true outlandish scenario at his doorstep, the Golfo Dulce.

There is a huge project awaiting the final approval from the Costa Rica’s Environmental Ministry to install up to 80 aquaculture cages in the Golfo Dulce.

Rapid development and expansion of intensive aquaculture for species such as salmon and shrimp has, for example, resulted in widespread degradation of the environment and the displacement of coastal fishing and farming communities.
Unsustainable aquaculture also negatively impacts on the food supplies and food security of developing coastal countries. Aquaculture development often blocks access to common lands, used by local people for fishing and cleaning (collecting of seafood from the ground), and takes away traditional food sources, for use in fishmeal and oil production for aquaculture production.

Aquaculture

The endeavor if carried out would not offer any substantial economic outcome for the rural communities that surround the Golfo Dulce.  But the case is not confined only to economical opportunities to the local population; the project poses huge problems to the region, namely:
1) Threatens to fragment the gulf’s delicate ecosystem, affecting local fisheries and sustainable tourism opportunities;
2) This project is based on the unsustainable production of species for high-value export markets (Japan in this case) with little concern for local needs.
3) The tuna aquaculture cages would attract big predators to the area, such as sharks that would potentially start to attack surfers at Pavones, a world known wave attracting surfers from every corner of the world, and other nearly areas like Punta Banco (the closest surf beach to the aquaculture project site);
4) Cause distress to turtles and possibly make them avoid to nest in the area;
5) The current flowing from where the tuna cages will be placed to the inside of Golfo Dulce would drag with them all the waste from the tuna farming facilities posing a huge threat to the local humpback whale population breeding in the area
The government says that actually this current is not flowing into the gulf, but some markers have been place on the site where the project is supposed to be placed and after 2 days or so they were tracked and collected inside the gulf.
6) This same waste would spread towards the surrounding pristine beaches and national parks like Piedras Blancas.

Besides all these factors surveys and the general feeling of the local population show an overwhelming anti-tuna farm sentiment; however, with few expendable resources to allocate to derailing the project, more powerful political and economical intentions are driving the proposal closer to implementation.

Aquaculture itself is not sustainable having many dreadful consequences to the environment.  It is a manmade response to a manmade problem, the decline of wild stocks of fish; and a way to meet the demand for some species that are becoming “harder” to catch in the wild because there aren’t much left in the wild, lead to aquaculture projects spreading around the globe to supply the market. Shrimp, salmon, tuna, tilapia and other marine finfish are now farmed!

Tuna

But this is no solution to overfishing!

To get a kilo of farmed fish it is required 4 times more of wild fishes, process them into fish food (wait but those are normally already food themselves!), and then feed the fish farms, not sustainable at all, a industry with little room to grow, in a world of already depleted fish stocks.

This associated with other problems such as:
- the extraction of marine species from oceans, including wild juveniles vital for future stock growth, increasing the burden on wild fish stocks and having major food security implications;
- the extraction of marine species from oceans, including wild juveniles vital for future stock growth, increasing the burden on wild fish stocks and having as referred already major food security implications;
- fishmeal and so-called ‘trash fish’ used for feed production – often the main food for local people – taken for use in aquaculture ponds;
- the release of organic wastes (that, for instance, act as plant nutrients for harmful algal blooms) and toxic effluents into the oceans;
- the destruction of coastal ecosystems, displacement of coastal communities and depletion of fresh water sources to build aquaculture ponds.

Aquaculture

However, there is still hope to save Golfo Dulce from this dark glimpse of the future.

PRETOMA a local NGO has several actions on their agenda to fight this project and hopefully bring it to hold next year (2010).

Check out their page for actions

The most decisive measure to stop this project would be a referendum in August, 2010. But for this to have binding effects 50% of the local population as to vote; I also learned from Sean that 60% of the population are indigenous Guaymí that live rather inland, with no high means of locomotion, so an awareness campaign needed to take place in order to inform them and take appropriate means of transport to allow them to vote, otherwise this would be a lost cause.

If you can help please do, visit PRETOMA’s website and arm yourself with knowledge!

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Also while shooting the breeze with Sean I also learned some interesting facts, some about the environmental conservation measures taken by the Tiskita Jungle Lodge, and the reintroduction of the Scarlet Macaw. A hundred years ago, Scarlet Macaws were abundant in the lowland tropical forests of Costa Rica. Poaching for the pet trade has eliminated this species from the area around Tiskita. The re-introduction of the Scarlet Macaw began in 1999 in conjunction with Amigos de las Aves. A free-flying flock of over thirty birds has successfully been established. The birds are currently in the process of dating as they are finding their life-long partner.

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Other things here are very interesting like the fact that some time ago Sean couldn’t buy any iron for construction from any supplier, and apparently all of Costa Rica had the same problem. Why? Story tells that China was building a dam so big it was buying and using up so mush iron, it was none left to reach areas like Pavones!

Well… stories from the paradise that is Pavones;
Question is: a Paradise for how long?

Visit: PRETOMA!!

Guaymí (day 5)

Got up around 0600, no wind, no rain, sun rising, another day in Rio Claro de PAVONES.

Surf wasn’t good and since yesterday PP and I didn’t manage to take any photos on the Indigenous Reserve while trekking up to come down the river on the buoy we decided to drive with the car until where we could and walk the rest until we reached the river.

On the way we picked up an elder and who I think to be his grandson and gave them a ride up the reserve. The new car was way better, the brakes were working and it was doing great doing on the dirt roads since the tires were not the best for the terrain conditions around Pavones and it had rained last night.

We left the elder and boy where they asked us to be dropped and followed the road until the school we had seen yesterday, and after which we thought the car couldn’t go further. This is a school for the Guaymí Indigenous children of the reserve, they were happy to be photographed jumping around and acting as children would. Good big smile that brought to my face.

Local School

Guaymi

We proceeded on foot from there, with no one to be seen until we reached the river, a thrilling scenario with a thick rainforest and patches of field where cattle was being raised, no waste lands with no trees and bare ground as we have seen on the way to Pavones. We sighted a few animals on the way. This is so different from what I’ve seen so far that almost 90% of what we see daily is new to me and I cannot name correctly (some photos embedded).

Path

Cattle

Bees

Costa Rica

After about 30 minutes walking we reached the river and were close to the heart of the Guaymí reserve. There was a hanging bridge there leading to a place that seemed not to have any paths of trails, but it was actually where many of the Guaymí had their homes, pure wilderness!

Bridge

Bridge

Wandering

The earliest inhabitants of Costa Rica far southern corner were the Guaymí, or Ngöbe, who migrated over generations from neighboring Panama. The Guaymí inhabit indigenous reserves in the Valle de Coto Brus, on the Osa peninsula in the southern Golfo Dulce, though they retain semi-nomadic ways and are allowed to pass freely over the border into Panama. This occurs frequently during the coffee harvesting season, when many Guaymí travel to work on plantations.

The Guaymí have been able to preserve – to some degree – their customs and culture, and it is not unusual to see women wearing traditional dress. These vibrant, solid-colour pollera dresses hang to the ankles, often trimmed in contrasting colours and patterns. Unlike other indigenous groups, the Guaymí still speak their native language and teach it in local schools.

The Guaymí traditionally live in wooden hut with palm roofs and dirty floors, although most families have now upgraded to wooden houses on stilts. However, they still live off the land, cultivating corn, rice and tubers, while fruit and palmitos grow in the wild.

Guaymi

The Guaymí reserves are largely inaccessible, which may be one reason why culture persists. However as tourism filters into the farthest corners of the country, there is growing interest in the indigenous traditions and handicrafts, and this demand may actually encourage their preservation. But, the reserves are also at a precipitous point – without proper managemenr and community participation, an influx of tourists (and tourist dollars) can also lead to cultural dilution and ultimately leave the younger generations to be engulfed in the process of globalization and loose what makes them unique… their traditions, customs, ethnicity and ways of life.

We took some time to take photos on the hanging bridge, around the river and to some point at the house that was built right on the riverside. I wandered around the hut, looking and approaching the horse grazing on the tropical pasture; he had a big hump on his column, I guess from the friction of the saddle, it wasn’t looking good, it wasn’t even being treated and I guess animal welfare around here is a minor issue.

I then decided to go up to the house and try to reach out to the Guaymí culture. I asked for permission to enter the field closer to the house. A few days ago a Guaymí visited us at the Riviera, Teoro is name was, and I noticed he never stepped into the balcony even we was sitting there talking to PP and Tourita, until I told him not be stay sitting there, and use one of the chairs. He had walked 6 hours to reach Pavones and take provisions to his family. He was selling 2 items, sombreros (hats) and bags (traditional style ones). I bought him one bag, it was 5000 colones (around US$6) and it was a good way of in a way help him out and to have something to take a gift to my girlfriend. He also asked for some food and I readily prepared him a sandwich. When people ask me for money I don’t really like to give it away I rather buy something of theirs, or a similar way of helping them out; but when I’m asked for food I cannot refuse, never, it happened in Uruguay a couple of times, in Argentina and like on those place here I cannot say no…

But back to the house by the river; I as granted permission to enter the grounds with a “por favor, pase” (please pass). I greeted the old man and introduced myself as Francisco, he replied with “mucho gusto, Alberto” (a pleasure, Alberto). I then asked about the region, what was that he was doing and other things. This 83 year old elder was an artesano (artisan) making sombreros (like Teoro) and he also worked with wood. His lovely wife Cecilia was making bags. PP was looking for a sombrero so it was a good opportunity for him to get one. And he did; by chance Don Alberto (as I called him with respect) had one prepared and fitted the big headed PP! A sombrero takes about a week to be made, as described by Don Alberto, working a little, and then taking a walk to do other things around the house, smoking a pipe, and then continue the sombrero making. He sold the sombrero for 15,000 colones (approx. US$25).

Don Alberto lived in a traditional hut built by him, he was telling us that it took around 3 months to build the roof but with palm tree leaves but then it lasts for a few years, he added. Inside the hut it was fish being smoked, and it would be there for another 3 or 4 hours he told us. With permission I took a few photos, told a little about where we came from, he was pleased his sombrero was to the taken “muy, muy lejos” (very, very faraway).

Guaymí

Guaymí

Smoked fish

Guaymí

Doln Alberto

Guaymí

Guaymí

Pipe and Lighter

Guaymí

Sombrero

After some more talking we said goodbye and leaving that magical place, with Don Alberto waving at us while we were going back uphill is something that will be in my mind forever.

The took the journey back, the kids at the school still waved, jumped and smiled at us, and the car did well on the way back into Pavones. The lunch was at Cafe de la Suerte, eating a Sabijh “an iraqui vegeratian burrito”, and we went to check the surf at Punta Banco since Pavones was still pretty small. The guys stayed out of the water but I went for a surf, the swell was rising and there were some better size waves, since we had only really small surf up to now, and it was very fun, everyday I’m more happy with my small 5’5’’ Fatum Surfboard, even on faster and hollow waves it pumps and has a great drive, also recovering from manoeuvres, great feel!

After that, I was stoked! The best day so far, and behind doubt it would be one of the best in the whole trip! I was thankful, still don’t know to who or what, maybe to nature …

After eating this now is bedtime, it is 1900 :-)

PURA VIDA!